The Ultimate Home Inspection Checklist

The Ultimate Home Inspection Checklist: What to Look for Before You Buy

The Inspection: Your Final Opportunity to Say No

When you are in your inspection contingency period, the goal is not to “pass” or “fail” the home. The inspection is a risk assessment that helps you decide whether the property, at this price and in this condition, still makes sense for you. Focus your attention on defects that affect safety, structure, and long-term cost rather than minor cosmetic issues like paint touch-ups or worn carpet. Small cosmetic items are easy to handle later; major structural or systems problems can be expensive, disruptive, and sometimes impossible to fully fix.

Use the inspector’s report as a roadmap. Your job as a buyer is to interpret that roadmap: which items are high-cost and non‑negotiable, which are medium‑priority maintenance, and which are simply cosmetic. That mindset will keep you from getting overwhelmed by a long report and help you make a clear yes/no or renegotiate decision.

High-Cost, Structural Non‑Negotiables

These are the items that can seriously impact safety, insurability, and resale value. They should be at the top of your checklist when reviewing the inspection report.

Foundation & Structure

For Los Angeles and Southern California, foundation and structural stability are critical because of seismic activity. On the inspection report and during any walkthrough, pay special attention to:

• Major cracks: horizontal, stair‑step, or wide vertical cracks in the foundation or stem walls.

• Signs of movement: doors or windows that stick, sloping or bouncy floors, large gaps between trim and walls, or visible shifting in walls or patios.

• Seismic anchoring: look for proper bolting of the house to the foundation and any visible cripple wall bracing, especially in older homes.

• Soft‑story concerns (multi‑unit): for duplexes, four‑plexes, or apartment-style properties with tuck‑under parking, ask your inspector about potential soft‑story vulnerabilities.

Any indication of significant movement, unresolved structural repairs, or missing seismic upgrades should be treated as a serious, high‑cost issue.

Roof

The roof is one of the most expensive components to replace and critical for protecting the home from water intrusion. Key things to look for include:

• Roof age and material: ask for any documentation on age and previous repairs or replacements.

• Missing, curling, cracked, or slipped shingles/tiles.

• Damaged or poorly installed flashing at chimneys, vents, and roof transitions.

• Evidence of past or active leaks: stains on ceilings, discoloration or moisture in the attic, patched areas, or soft spots on decking.

• Heavy debris, moss, or ponding water on flat or low‑slope roofs.

If the roof is near the end of its expected life or has a history of leaks, consider this a major negotiating point.

Drainage & Grading

Water is one of the biggest long‑term threats to a home, especially around the foundation and in hillside areas.

Look for:

• Grading that slopes toward the house instead of away.

• Water pooling near the foundation after rain or irrigation.

• Gutters and downspouts missing, clogged, or discharging right at the base of the house instead of several feet away.

• Saturated soil or standing water in the crawlspace.

• Signs of hillside erosion, movement, or poorly engineered retaining walls on sloped lots.

Ongoing drainage issues can lead to foundation movement, mold, and expensive structural repairs.

Pest/Termite

In Southern California, termites and wood‑destroying organisms are extremely common, particularly in older homes with raised foundations and lots of exterior wood.

Key items:

• Evidence of active termites (subterranean or drywood): mud tubes, frass (pellet‑like droppings), or visible insects.

• Wood rot or fungus damage on beams, posts, eaves, decks, and fences.

• Damaged or hollow‑sounding wood, especially in structural components under the house or in the attic.

Significant termite or dry rot damage to structural members, floor joists, or roof framing is a high‑priority condition, not a minor repair.

Major Systems & Utilities

Major systems affect comfort, safety, and ongoing operating costs. They are also expensive to replace, so pay close attention to age, condition, and safety.

HVAC (Heating & Cooling)

For LA buyers, a functioning and efficient HVAC system is non‑negotiable. Review:

• Age of the furnace and condenser; many systems have a typical life of 15–20 years.

• Evidence that the system actually operates: hot air in heat mode, cold air in cooling mode.

• Condition of the units: rust, corrosion, odd sounds, or visible damage.

• Ductwork: disconnected runs, crushed ducts, excessive dust, or insulation issues.

• Venting: safe and proper venting of combustion appliances to the exterior.

Old, inefficient, or failing HVAC systems can be leveraged for credits or price reductions, especially when replacement is imminent.

Plumbing

Plumbing issues are especially common in older LA homes, and some materials are known problems.

Look for:

• Pipe material:

  • Galvanized steel: prone to corrosion, low pressure, and interior buildup.

  • Polybutylene: widely considered a replacement‑risk material.

  • Old cast iron or clay sewer lines: frequently cracked, offset, or root‑intruded.

• Leaks: under sinks, around toilets, at hose bibs, and in visible supply lines.

• Water heater: age, visible rust, double‑strapping (required in CA), proper venting, and a functioning temperature‑pressure relief (TPR) valve.

• Water pressure: very low or extremely high pressure can indicate issues.

For homes 50+ years old, strongly consider a separate sewer lateral camera scope as part of your due diligence.

Electrical

Older LA homes often have outdated electrical systems that are not designed for modern loads.

Key concerns:

• Main service size: many older houses have 60‑ or 100‑amp service; most modern single‑family homes benefit from 150–200 amps.

• Original electrical panels from obsolete or recalled brands, or panels showing signs of overheating, scorching, or double‑tapped breakers.

• Ungrounded outlets (two‑prong) and a lack of GFCI protection in kitchens, baths, garages, and exterior locations.

• Knob‑and‑tube, aluminum branch wiring, or visible amateur/DIY wiring.

Serious electrical deficiencies are safety hazards and can be expensive to bring up to current standards.

Red Flags Common in Older LA Homes

Los Angeles has a large stock of mid‑century and pre‑war homes, each with quirks that show up repeatedly on inspections. Here are specific red flags to watch for.

Unpermitted Additions and Conversions

Many LA homes have additions, garage conversions, or bonus rooms that were never permitted.

What to do:

• Compare listed square footage with public record data and original floor plans, if available.

• Look for inconsistent finishes, oddly placed steps or doors, or visible changes in roof line that suggest added space.

• Ask your agent and inspector to flag areas that appear non‑original and verify permits with the city when possible.

Unpermitted work can create appraisal issues, insurance problems, and liability if the work is unsafe or later requires removal.

Deteriorated Sewer Lines

Older clay or cast iron sewer laterals in LA are notorious for root intrusion, cracks, and offsets.

Best practice:

• For homes older than about 50 years, order a separate sewer camera inspection.

• Review the video and written report for breaks, offsets, sags (“bellies”), and heavy root intrusion.

• Get an estimate: full sewer replacements can run into five figures, especially in longer runs or in the street.

Because sewer problems are underground and invisible, this is one of the highest‑value inspections you can order.

Asbestos and Lead Paint

Many LA homes built before 1978 may contain lead‑based paint and various asbestos‑containing materials (e.g., old floor tiles, acoustic “popcorn” ceilings, duct insulation).

Key points:

• The standard home inspection is usually visual only; testing for lead or asbestos is typically a separate service.

• Intact materials are often left in place, but any planned renovation (sanding, demolition, scraping) can trigger expensive abatement requirements.

• Factor potential abatement costs into your long‑term budget if you plan major remodeling.

Poor Ventilation and Moisture

In older homes, ventilation is often an afterthought, leading to moisture and mold problems.

Watch for:

• Bathrooms without fans or with fans that vent into the attic instead of outside.

• Stuffy, hot attics with no visible soffit or ridge vents.

• Musty odors, dark staining, or visible mold‑like growth in bathrooms, under sinks, or in crawlspaces.

Correcting ventilation is usually less expensive than structural work, but long‑term moisture damage can be a major issue.

Original or Undersized Systems

Beyond electrical and plumbing, older LA homes often have “original everything”–original furnace, windows, insulation, etc.

These may not be immediate deal‑killers, but:

• Original single‑pane windows and poor insulation mean higher energy bills and comfort issues.

• Old, uninsulated, or leaky ducts reduce HVAC efficiency.

• Aging gas lines, shutoff valves, and other components may not meet current best practices.

Treat these as medium‑ to long‑term costs you will likely incur after closing.

Next Steps: Negotiating Repairs vs. Credit

Once you have digested the inspection report and any specialty reports (sewer scope, roof, foundation, etc.), you move into strategy: what to ask for, and in what form.

Prioritize Critical vs. Cosmetic

Separate the findings into three buckets:

• Critical / High‑Cost: foundation movement, major roof issues, active leaks, dangerous electrical, failing sewer, extensive termite or rot, non‑functional HVAC, major plumbing defects.

• Important but Manageable: older systems that are still working, inadequate ventilation, moderate wood damage, missing GFCIs, minor drainage improvements.

• Cosmetic: paint, worn flooring, small cracks in drywall, loose cabinet doors, minor landscaping.

Your negotiation should focus heavily on the first bucket, selectively on the second, and usually not at all on the third.

Repairs vs. Credits

In many cases, especially in LA, it can be better to ask for a credit or price reduction rather than seller‑performed repairs.

Benefits of credits:

• You choose your own contractors and control quality and scope.

• Work can be done to your standards after closing, not rushed to meet a contingency deadline.

• You avoid the risk of “lipstick” fixes that conceal rather than solve the problem.

Situations where you might insist on repairs before closing:

• Serious safety hazards (e.g., active gas leaks, live exposed wiring).

• Issues that affect insurability or loan approval.

Work closely with your agent to:

• Get rough estimates for major items (roof, sewer, HVAC, etc.).

• Decide whether to request a price reduction, seller credit, or specific repairs.

• Evaluate whether the seller’s response still makes the deal make sense for you.